Deter Water Entry: Precautions to Take

If you have signs of water damage, waterproofing repairs may be warranted, and Smith’s is ready to help. But there are everyday maintenance measures you can take – and we recommend regardless – in preventing water from finding its way into your home. Here are hints for homeowners:

Gutters and downspouts must be properly installed and intact, clear of debris and regularly maintained to channel rain/melted snow away from your foundation. Leaves, twigs and other debris can easily collect, obstructing flow. Clogged gutters and downspout may even cause backups that can damage your roof. Gutters and downspouts should be maintained at least biannually. Spring and after-fall inspection/maintenance should be routine for the homeowner, but it’s wise to check around your home after heavy snows or strong wind/rainstorms to ensure gutter and downspout integrity. Adjust, repair or replace any portions as soon as needs are noted.

Downspout ends should be properly angled to direct water away and keep it from pooling around or near your foundation. Use a downspout splash block or concrete gutter to deter water collection and direct it away. The angle should be roughly at a one-degree angle per foot. Extensions to spouts are a very good idea to aid channeling of water away from the home; angles here should also be of a similar, sufficient slope.

Downspouts can also be diverted into a pipe set into the ground with the pipe directing water away from the foundation. However, this method is sometimes more problematic than helpful, if you happened to have inherited such a situation. The underground pipe should be long enough to discharge water runoff a minimum of 15 feet from the foundation. But be aware that underground downspouts and the pipe itself may back up, freeze up, or otherwise malfunction if improperly installed or if leaks, cracks or separations develop underground. Blockages in the pipe can have quite adverse effects, causing water to back up toward the foundation. Pipe routing should direct water into a storm drain, dry well or to a surface outlet – again, located at least 15 feet away. With the diverted downspout/underground pipe method, attention to proper drainage is of critical importance.

Inspect the ground and conditions around your home for several contributors of water entry. If the ground near your home is sharply sloped away from the foundation, ensure that ends of downspouts discharging water to surface soil are at least five feet from the foundation. Any closer to the top pitch of the grade/slope and water may find its way into your basement.

Proper grading/grade steepness is very important. Many recommend that the surface and ground be sloped away from the home at a pitch of one inch drop over 10 foot; still others say it should be as much as one inch per one foot. If it appears your grading or landscaping has the potential for water-entry problems, re-grading efforts should be attempted. Of course, any lawns that are quite flat – or those sloping toward the house – present true potential for damaging water to enter your basement.

Yard drains/surface water drains are recommended as a solution when a positive grade can not be achieved and water pooling routinely occurs on the ground’s surface. In such instances, drain systems can be installed against a home/building, along the sidewalk area, the driveway, etc.

On the subject of driveways: Older concrete walkways or driveways that slope toward the foundation of the home – especially if they are cracked, crumbled or otherwise in need of repair – are highly potential problems that may cause home water entry. In these situations, consider waterproofing first, then replacement of concrete areas.

Basement window and wells that are unprotected can easily permit water entry. Any windows or part of them that are below the home’s grading should receive additional protection via masonry (or other material) window wells. Also, plastic or other-material awning-like covers can be used to enclose windows to prevent water entry. Ensure that all basement or underground window frames are well-sealed and that closure mechanisms are in good operating condition. Don’t present an “open invitation” for rain and melted snow to enter your basement.